Uh, calibrating a frequency display is a lot like calibrating any other kind of measuring tool. You compare it to a high-precision reference and adjust the trimmer cap until both units display the same frequency.
The counter's calibration is only part of the picture. In that radio two frequencies are mixed together. The sum of those two frequencies added together is your ACTUAL operating frequency.
The Galaxy displays only measure one of those two frequencies, the local oscillator, or "LO" from the PLL and channel selector.
It takes that frequency, between 14 and 17 MHz more or less, and adds it to the EXPECTED frequency of the radio's carrier oscillator. This is 10.695 MHz for AM, 10.6925 for USB and 10.6975 for LSB.
There is a set of three slug-tuned coils on the 10.695 crystal, one for each of those frequencies. Unless they are set to match the "fixed" aritthmetic inside that display, it won't read correctly.
There is a tiny trimmer capacitor inside the display that will calibrate the frequency that it reads out. But only if the radio's internal adjustments are also close enough.
But this still leaves you needing a reference to do this. A signal generator that is highly accurate and stable can be used to set the receiver on frequency. Once that's done, adjust the display's trimmer cap to make the displayed frequency agree. Or a lab-grade counter will serve, to compare with what your display reads.
Either way will work, but both require equipment you don't have.
If you can talk someone who has a communications service monitor, or similar equipment into helping, be sure to "warm up" the radio for at least 20 or 20 minutes before you change the display's trimmer cap. Those displays will drift while they warm up. If you set the trimmer cap while it's cold, it will be wrong when it warms up.
Hmmmmm. Now that I've said all those discuraging things, it occurs to me I should be reading between the lines, too. Odds are that you're being told that you are off frequency on SSB because the clarifier is locked out on transmit. Modifying the clarifier so that you transmit on the SAME frequency you've tuned in on receive is a big deal.
Unlocking the clarifier is pretty simple. One diode gets removed. And one (only) lead wire of one resistor gets pulled from one hole in the PC board, and placed into a (previously) empty, unmarked hole alongside it, and soldered there.
Remove the solder blocking the unmarked hole to the rear of R141's long lead and insert the free end of R141 here.
If what you're really trying to do is get your transmit frequency lined up with where the receiver is tuned, that's what you need. Calibrating the counter probably is not.
73
